Once the sash has dried, trim back the joints and check it fits into the opening in the main frame. The picture here shows the hinged sash is slightly proud of the fame (maybe 10mm) more about this later. If the frame does not fit, plane a little so that it moves easily within the opening. I also plane a slant on the bottom (parring some off the inside edge), so any water inadvertently getting under the hinged sash, is directed back out, rather than inwards.
Here, I have also added the rebate for the glass to sit against. I have found the simplest method is to use lengths of mitred quadrant mouldings, as before.
Although it is possible to rout the rebate in, I have not chosen this approach (although I know a man who has). And I do know that gluing in extras does not improve the water-resistance of the frame. However, the solution is to fit everything together accurately, and failing that, fill in all gaps.
I also rout a drip channel (for want of better terminology) all the way around the inside of the hinged sash. Centrally placed, about 6mm wide and 3mm deep.
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