now to the overlap

I do apologise to anyone reading, for the lack of correct terminology, I really am an amateur. In the past I have created sash openings which are flush with the rest of the frame. But they do provide a small egress for wet and wind. To avoid this I am attempting an overlap, hence the sash sitting proud of the main frame. I have attached a moulded piece of beading around the edge (mitred at the corners), I am not sure this is the best method, and I am sure I will attempt another in the future. In fact, I am disatisfied with the end result, and may well build a new sash opening, which has a routed overlap.

A fittingly hinged-sash

Once the sash has dried, trim back the joints and check it fits into the opening in the main frame. The picture here shows the hinged sash is slightly proud of the fame (maybe 10mm) more about this later. If the frame does not fit, plane a little so that it moves easily within the opening. I also plane a slant on the bottom (parring some off the inside edge), so any water inadvertently getting under the hinged sash, is directed back out, rather than inwards.

Here, I have also added the rebate for the glass to sit against. I have found the simplest method is to use lengths of mitred quadrant mouldings, as before.



Although it is possible to rout the rebate in, I have not chosen this approach (although I know a man who has). And I do know that gluing in extras does not improve the water-resistance of the frame. However, the solution is to fit everything together accurately, and failing that, fill in all gaps.

I also rout a drip channel (for want of better terminology) all the way around the inside of the hinged sash. Centrally placed, about 6mm wide and 3mm deep.

Hinged sash

Or hopefully, to call it by its correct name, a side-hung hinged sash (to distinguish from common or garden sash, or the even more plebian horizontal sliding sash). Anyway, finally I get round to posting about the 'opening part of a casement window'. Firstly, it is important to note that the mortice and tenons are jointed the opposite way to the main frame of the window. See the diagram to the right.

Measure the opening the sash has to fit into, reduce by a mm on all edges, to allow the window to open. Then cut the joints (with the elbows), drill slightly staggered holes to peg the frame together (see earlier posts for more details), glue, peg and clamp in place. In the absence of sash clamps I use my work bench. I would also recommend pegging the frame together on both sides (a message from experience) to prevent the frame bending.