Nearly finished window

Right now the window has had one coat of gloss paint (but been preserved, primed and undercoated). Hinges have been purchased (probably cranked hinges-if that is the term), and I am ready to order the glazing units. Most important of all, and learned from bitter experience, always measure at least twice, if not more, and check with the glaziers, how much gap you must allow between the glass and frame. I stick the glazing units in with silicon sealant and then pin in glazing bars which have been preserved, primed and painted. I will post the in situ window, later. Oh, and because it will be double glazed, I shall also put in a vent in (easy to purchase from diy stores). A doddle, but also an on-going learning process...

now to the overlap

I do apologise to anyone reading, for the lack of correct terminology, I really am an amateur. In the past I have created sash openings which are flush with the rest of the frame. But they do provide a small egress for wet and wind. To avoid this I am attempting an overlap, hence the sash sitting proud of the main frame. I have attached a moulded piece of beading around the edge (mitred at the corners), I am not sure this is the best method, and I am sure I will attempt another in the future. In fact, I am disatisfied with the end result, and may well build a new sash opening, which has a routed overlap.

Hinged sash

Or hopefully, to call it by its correct name, a side-hung hinged sash (to distinguish from common or garden sash, or the even more plebian horizontal sliding sash). Anyway, finally I get round to posting about the 'opening part of a casement window'. Firstly, it is important to note that the mortice and tenons are jointed the opposite way to the main frame of the window. See the diagram to the right.

Measure the opening the sash has to fit into, reduce by a mm on all edges, to allow the window to open. Then cut the joints (with the elbows), drill slightly staggered holes to peg the frame together (see earlier posts for more details), glue, peg and clamp in place. In the absence of sash clamps I use my work bench. I would also recommend pegging the frame together on both sides (a message from experience) to prevent the frame bending.

Casement Window VI

Check all the mortice and tenons fit (assemble the whole window) they want to be a good fit, but not too snug. Before gluing every thing together, holes have to be drilled so that dowelling pegs (I use 6mm) can reinforce the joint, if the hole in the tenon is drilled slightly closer to the inside of the frame, then the dowel acts to draw everything together. Then all sides of the tenon and mortice are liberally glued with a waterproof wood adhesive, assembled, hammered home, pegged with the dowel, clamped if you have long sash clamps and left to dry. Sorry, I swear the photo was in focus when on the camera, I really must get a better one.

Casement Window V

Maybe not the best photographs in the world (I do only have a pint and shoot), it is not my metier. But hopefully the idea is clear. Scribe the mortice and tenon using the marking gauge, cut tenon using a tenon saw, and mortice using using chisel/drill router combination.